Windows
These Windows Matter
Older and historic windows matter. They are often one-of-a-kind and cannot be matched in terms of quality and design even by the best replacement windows.
Please Handle With Care
Windows in older and historic buildings are unique, requiring care to ensure that they last and do their job in letting in light and blocking out the elements.
No Need to Replace
Replacement windows are unnecessary because older windows can be repaired and retrofitted without dramatically altering the look of a historic building.
Historic Windows Work
Retaining original windows does not have to come at the expense of comfort, as most windows can be retrofitted for energy efficiency and block out the cold.
A Matter of Character
Original windows – even modernist "picture windows" – are important to retain because they define the character and architectural styles of older buildings.
Windows are the most visible, yet commonly under-appreciated components of older and historic homes and buildings.
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While being very beautiful, original historic windows also serve a great purpose – they impart a building's inside-outside connection. They provide ventilation and light, and can function as emergency egress. Above all, they offer clues to a building's history because they are integral aspects of architectural design.
However, despite all of these attributes, windows are an easy target and are all too often blamed for energy loss. Commonly, people jump to replace their historic windows because companies promise that their replacement windows will not only save them time and money, but that their products and services are the "green" thing to do. In fact, a thriving industry has grown around the perceived need to replace rather than restore.
Have you ever wondered why there are no replacement fireplaces? Fireplaces with ill-fitting or missing dampers leak more heat than windows do, but salesmen don't leave flyers for new dampers in your mailbox, do they?
One reason why it is tempting for homeowners to replace their original historic windows is because they can immediately see a difference when a window is replaced. And, even though a project like sealing air leaks will ultimately save more energy than replacing windows, there is relatively low demand for air-sealing services. As Tom Kenny, manager of C&O Conservation, has said, "I provide something that is invisible."
The following frequently asked questions are intended to not only inform and inspire, but to demonstrate how you can keep your old windows, achieve energy efficiency, and be "green" throughout the process.
Want to dig deeper? Visit our Whole House Resource Bank for links to some of the best weatherization information and materials available online. From insightful blogs and articles by the experts, to checklists and how-to's, you’ll find it all here.
Comments
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Submitted by JOYA at: May 9, 2011
I have 40 windows from and historic home in Narragansett, RI. The house is a McKim, Meade and White. I am looking for a buyer. Thank you for your assistance. Joya Maxwell
Submitted by Scott at: November 22, 2010
I wish there was more information about high quality weather stripping for windows. After years of searching I finally found some - Google "qlon". By running a kerf down the parting strip and sash stop molding, I now have have tight sashes that move freely using a weather stripping that will last my lifetime. An aded plus was that I didn't need to make a modification to my sashes.
Submitted by architect at: November 19, 2010
I would like to see the National Trust do an actual detailed side by side cost comparsion of having a union rate scale paid professional (keeping track of his time) repair a badly deteriorated window, including caulking, etc., complete including installing thermally sealed double pane glazing, and then do an independent air/water-infiltration and heat loss measurements verses installing a new aluminum clad wood window with thermally sealed double pane glazing and do the same tests and see which one is less expensive to install, maintain and operate. One never sees actual costs and your articles never include the cost of one's own "sweat equity."
Submitted by catherine at: November 19, 2010
You might try infrared, low heat from eco-strip to soften glazing so you don't break glass and get lead paint off without lead fumes.
Submitted by LJ at: November 18, 2010
I am thrilled about this article. My husband and I are almost done rebuilding/refinishing/winterizing our 100 - 160 year old double hung windows. First we had custom storms made. Search for local makers rather than paying big bucks to the local lumber yard. Ours had arched tops and strange dimensions. Next we took out the old double hung sashes. Trying to remove the old putty with heat even by professionals just ended up breaking the glass. We used a Fein Multimaster to take out most of the old putty and put in new. That was great. Then we bought new spring bronze and vinyl weather stripping and put it everywhere. They are beautiful. There are books and videos to help you with all these steps. Do some searching on Amazon. It was really time consuming and sometimes dirty work but we saved a huge amount of money. New windows would have cost thousands of dollars. And I love my old wavy, bubbly glass!
Submitted by nineteenfiftyeight at: August 30, 2010
I love my old windows and have restored almost all of them to like new! I am still looking for the right approach to caulking and weatherstripping my old doors and windows
Submitted by fred at: July 19, 2010
if you want to weatherize your basement windows,just take a piece of plexiglass and skrew it or caulk it to the outside.
Submitted by Barbara at: May 6, 2010
I also am looking for ways to weatherize metal framed windows encased in concrete walls including the possibilities of replacing the small panes with double pane units.
Submitted by Kate at: March 11, 2010
Pine floors- We refinished our orginal pine floors; removed lead paint, sanded, stained and poly. looks beautiful but...if I have to do it over again I would have used a wax finish instead of poly so that if there was spot damage it could be repaired and more natural finish. good luck.
Submitted by tina at: January 21, 2010
have 30+ year old home with brick and wood shingle exterior - it lacks adequate insulation in the exterior walls, especially on the north side upstairs - can get as cold as 40-50 degrees in master bathroom! best way to insulate and retain beauty of exterior?
Submitted by peter at: December 11, 2009
Bought a 1726 home in Rocky Hill CT and looking to do a total overhaul. Energy efficiency is going to be key! Pine floor re-finishing tips too.
Submitted by CKramer at: November 4, 2009
I'm looking for the best way to weatherize metal framed windows that are incased in concrete without having to put in new windows right yet.