Going Green at Home
How does a preservation-minded architect make his own house greener? Carefully … very carefully
By James Schwartz | From Preservation | March/April 2009
Architect Stephen Tilly says his Dobbs Ferry, N.Y., house is “Colonial Revival with some Arts and Crafts touches.” Now it’s also green.
Credit: Michel Leroy
Architect Stephen Tilly had a commitment problem. Seventeen years after he and Elizabeth Martin moved into their stone-and-shingle cottage overlooking the Hudson River in Dobbs Ferry, N.Y., he still couldn't decide how or when to restore the place. "Working on clients' homes was easy," says the award-winning architect, who began practicing in 1972. "It was much harder to commit to our own project."
The 1904 house was stable and comfortable (he and Martin had painted and made modest improvements after buying it in 1979), but a host of challenges cried out for attention. Capitals atop the Ionic columns lining the porches had disintegrated, uninsulated plaster walls and leaky windows meant unacceptably high heating bills, and water had damaged portions of the original ceilings. And of course there was the roof: Whenever winds blew off the river with particular force, red asphalt shingles flew from above, usually landing in a neighbor's yard and requiring stealth cleanup missions—plus abject apologies.
Tilly's vexing problem was figuring out how to initiate a comprehensive home restoration program that was historically appropriate and emphatically green. "We chose this old house because it was well built, and because it was close to the village and transportation—very green attributes," he explains, "I wanted our restoration to blend the latest technology, proven methods, and building science. I admit that was a tall order, and I guess that's the reason we kept putting the project off."
Finally, in 2006, he and Martin gathered up their courage (and marshaled their finances) to implement the first phase of a green restoration program. They started outside with the two areas that required immediate attention: the failing roof and the shingled exterior walls.
"Green equals durability—that's the preservation mantra," Tilly says. When choosing new materials for the roof and walls, he searched for long-lasting products that would require minimal maintenance. At the outset he considered western red cedar, a traditional building material harvested in the United States and Canada, but a chance conversation with a craftsman changed his mind. "Our carpenter, who's very experienced, mentioned that he thought red cedar was getting less and less reliable," Tilly says. "He suggested we consider Alaskan yellow cedar, because it's extremely dense, insect resistant, and durable."
Before accepting his recommendation, Tilly and Martin calculated two important figures: the surcharge for yellow cedar (roughly 30 percent) and the environmental costs associated with trucking Alaskan shingles across the continent to New York. (Energy consumed by transporting building materials over long distances can compromise the green goals of a project.) After completing basic research, Tilly concluded that the yellow cedar would likely last for 50 years or even more—much, much longer than the less expensive red alternative. The projected life expectancy, and the energy savings provided by stringently monitoring construction and keeping waste to an absolute minimum, mitigated his concerns, and he okayed the purchase of 1⁄2-inch yellow cedar shingles for the walls, and slightly thicker 5⁄8-inch shingles for the roof.
That's when restoration began in earnest. "We decided to take the house down to the original sheathing," Tilly says. Off came all the loose asphalt on the roof, along with a motley collection of rotted wooden shingles that had survived beneath. Then workmen moved off the roof and onto the walls, peeling away all the decaying cedar still attached to the second and third stories. "When they were done, we were able to start from substrate," he says, "a real tabula rasa."
To guarantee a long life for the new roof, Martin and Tilly opted for a meticulous installation method. Workers laid plywood down over the original sheathing and covered it with a waterproof membrane. Then they nailed a crisscrossing grid of wooden strips called cribbing to the new material. The cribbing provided a framework for the roof shingles, and acted as a sort of spacer between the roof and the cedar. Water runs off instead of getting trapped beneath the shingles, and the cribbing permits constant air circulation so that the shingles remain dry. "This is a conservative approach," Tilly admits, "a meld of contemporary and classic. And the payoff is that cold air no longer floods into the attic. For the first time we're keeping air out of the house, instead of heating the air that makes its way in."
With work on the roof nearly complete, workmen installed a Tyvek membrane on the walls to protect them from moisture. Then they judiciously replaced rotted window trim (saving and reusing sound pieces), and finished the walls with new shingles that will fade to a soft gray without the application of any special coatings or sealants. Today the house looks much as it did at the turn of the last century, with shingles that spring from a point above the stone base and crawl up and over the gambrel roof. The look is "shingley Colonial Revival," Tilly says. "It may not be a great architectural achievement, but it's a great house."
Now that work on the exterior is almost finished, Tilly and Martin have begun planning next steps for their restoration. Windows are first on the list, because energy-efficient window units are key to any successful green building project. Tilly has already removed and restored a few windows in the house, repairing and reglazing and weatherstripping, then putting them back in place behind functioning storm windows. (See "Window Know-How" on p. 36.) Some aluminum triple-track storms were already on the house in 1979, so he didn't see any reason to replace them. He rehabbed a few that were in poor shape and painted them a custom color so that they blend seamlessly into the facade. Storms that could not be repaired were recycled (glass and aluminum separated and sent to recycling centers) and replaced to prevent energy loss.
Though insulating the c. 1904 windows with storms has made a big difference, insulation elsewhere—or the lack of it—still poses a substantial challenge. "There are countless nooks and crannies that allow air to penetrate exterior walls—you can't believe the sneaky ways air gets in," Tilly says. He continues to pursue an aggressive program of insulation throughout the century-old structure. When a porch roof had to be removed, for instance, workmen filled the exposed cavity with foam insulation, before rebuilding and replacing the soffit. Tilly says he plans to continue using foam insulation where it makes sense, but will also study other options.
"We may wind up using three different kinds of insulation at our house. Currently I'm evaluating cellulose, which is very green because it's composed of recycled old newspapers mixed with boric acid. That has the lowest carbon footprint. But I'm also considering foam for places where we can't get cellulose in. Recently I spent time at a workshop with contractors, gathering their information, so I'm trying to figure out which types to use before moving forward."
The pressing insulation dilemma that keeps him (and plenty of green preservationists) up at night is this: How do you insulate masonry walls? "We live in a house with these massive stone walls on the first floor that you can see from the outside. Inside of course, there's a layer of space through which run wires and heating pipes, then there's lathing and plaster. So do we insulate in there? Should we insulate? Or is it a waste of energy to warm and dry the inside of those granite walls?" Tilly admits that he's stumped, but his plan at the moment is to experiment: "We may remove an entire interior wall and build a new stud wall that we can thoroughly insulate in a conventional way … it's still an open question."
Elizabeth Martin, an accomplished landscape designer, says this thoughtful approach has served her and Tilly well, helping them to avoid costly errors. "Whenever possible, I always advise clients to go slowly and in phases so that you're learning from one project to the next."
What's next on her list? Replastering then repainting several rooms with the low-VOC paints mandated by the State of New York. Older, conventional paints contained high levels of volatile organic compounds, which released a potent form of gas when first applied to walls. Not only did VOCs compromise air quality, they drove plenty of homeowners away from their houses until the air had cleared and the walls were dry. Today's low- or no-VOC alternatives are odor free and pose fewer problems for residents suffering from allergies.
Tilly suggests choosing paints based on their predicted life cycle. He views this as a question of sustainability. Is it reasonable to choose and apply a low-VOC paint to the exterior of a building, for example, if you know you'll have to repaint in short order? "We need a lot more information about the carbon footprint associated with manufacturing low- or no-VOC paints before we can make a judgment about what's green," Tilly says.
As part of the interior rehab, Martin and Tilly also plan to remove poor-quality cove molding applied to the ceilings during the 1950s, and replace it with original lengths of picture rail, carefully preserved for just this purpose. (If gaps remain, they'll have replacements milled.) Before the restoration is complete, they'll also replace inefficient fixtures throughout the house with water-saving devices. Tilly says the low-flow showerheads he has placed in all four bathrooms save gallons of water. He's currently researching dual-flush toilets to find the best options.
With the restoration well underway, and energy-saving results already generating hundreds of dollars in savings, Tilly says he's looking forward to the next set of challenges. "For a long time I said that the cobbler's children always go barefoot, and our house was the last project on my list," Tilly admits. "I've finally decided to work on my own pair of shoes."
Comments



Submitted by yournetbiz at: November 5, 2009
this post was so ahead of its time when you think about it. It was March 2009 and its just growing in relevance. Well done
Submitted by judith at: July 8, 2009
First, let me say I am delighted with ANY article that encourages ANYONE to live a more sustainable life. BUT: I think there are ways to do it and ways to do it. I read your “Going Green at Home,” Preservation, March/April 2009 article with interest. I’d like to introduce you to two other (real people) award-winning architects who graduated from architecture school in 1973 (beginning their careers at almost the same time as architect Stephen Tilly) bought an old (1877) house in 1979. These two, like Tilly, were influenced by the “energy crisis” of 1973 so knew and believed in energy conservation. Today, they understand and believe in sustainability: direct descendent of 70s energy conservation. I was struck by the parallels between the experiences of Tilly and these two. First, they bought a historic little house (2,000 sf), in 1979, just like Tilly. Except theirs is an attached urban row house. Sustainability begins with very first decisions They replaced the black built up roof of their house with the traditional roof for their house: a terne-coated steel roof. In 1981. In the process they insulated the roof to R-30. Then as they moved about the house, renovating, based on funds, removing the previous owner’s hideous work they added insulation to walls, double glazed windows, tightening the envelope, making HVAC systems more responsive with programmable thermostats, installing low flow fixtures…the whole nine yards. My (somewhat rhetorical) question to you: In the big sustainable picture is it better to take sustainability moves in a free-standing house thirty years after buying or to have thirty years of saving of energy, water, etc.? Is Going Green at Home a bit of greenwash, looking at a single house in isolation from the larger context? Am I guilty of a bit of Greener-than-thou? I am the loyal preservation architect, deeply committed to sustainability, commenting on the article. I would like to suggest another article to parallel Going Green at Home, addressing similar issues, somewhat in parallel. This article would present how our urban environments lend themselves to sustainability: in individual buildings, in infrastructure, AND in critical lifestyle ways where walkability minimizes autos and maximizes public transportation choice. Our urban environments are also packed with preservation opportunities. I’d love to write such an article, looking at preservation and sustainability from another angle, or you could write it about my husband, the other architect, our house, and me. judith.capen@architravepc.com
Submitted by Anonymous at: June 16, 2009
going green is a necessity for our survival, so I am going to all the technological inovations saving our environment! thank you again! Voyance par téléphone
Submitted by Sarah at: June 13, 2009
Elizabeth Martin, an accomplished landscape designer, says this thoughtful approach has served her and Tilly well, helping them to avoid costly errors. "Whenever possible, I always advise clients to go slowly and in phases so that you're learning from one project to the next." error nuker review
Submitted by peter at: June 11, 2009
Yes I agree with you, it is high time for humanity to return to the values ! Voyance or Voyance
Submitted by Alan at: June 6, 2009
I'm dying to have one of they totally green houses made from like old car tyres and mud. I think it would be great. It's something i fancy doing when my e-lottery business really takes off.
Submitted by peter at: June 5, 2009
Anyway you have to go totally green in every sense of the word ! voyance gratuite
Submitted by Virginia at: May 28, 2009
This is a great example of going green, but! There has obviously been a huge expense here. I'm not saying it's not worth it but for the avergae man in the street this sort of modification is just not affordable. But, respect to the guy, the house looks loveley :) - Wisebills
Submitted by Twirls at: April 28, 2009
this article is awesome. i am planning to move in a few weeks and this information is very helpful
Submitted by Scott at: April 27, 2009
Some great information in this article for people (like me) who own a old house. I'm ready for a new roof and saw your tip about how to keep it dry. This has been a big problem for my house, especially since seventy five percent of my roof is shaded by trees and always is damp. It's been a constant problem with leaks and wood rot. But the cribbing technique seems to be the answer with allowing better air circulation. It might cost a litle more, but sounds like it will pay for itself overtime. Thanks! Scott Philadelphia Wedding Photographer
Submitted by Tim at: April 13, 2009
"Green equals durability" is a great message to get out there, and will help more people be attracted to the whole green idea. Besides tips that help improve old houses -which is great by the way, it's time to get people off the grid entirely. It's now possible one’s home off the power grid entirely. I think the more this becomes known, the more common it will become. I’m currently in an apartment because my wife works close by where we live, but once we move out west in a couple years, it’s my plan to have the house producing it’s own energy. Wouldn’t it be cool to get more than half the homes out there doing that? Eventually it would reach a “tipping” point where others sucking energy from power companies would feel like they are losing out- and losing energy money. And they would be. gethomemadeenergy.org
Submitted by okocha51 at: April 6, 2009
i am architecture photo coordinator in japan
Submitted by army_gf26 at: April 6, 2009
i love learning about all this stuff about going green..it's really enlightening and very very useful.
Submitted by LAHumphress at: March 13, 2009
Great article! Taking things slowly is the best approach for a project like this. The only thing that might cause some alarm is the lack of breathability by adding plastic materials to the roof or disrupting the flow of moisture that is required to maintain a masonry wall by adding insulation. For the wall, the best thing you can probably do is make sure the joints are properly sealed with a good lime putty. The addition of a stud wall would alter the character of the building's interior by adding thickness. All in all though, very inspiring!
Submitted by Wanda at: March 9, 2009
An inspiring account of "greenovating" your old, drafty home!