Home Rx: Ask Us Your Questions
Ask us a question, any question: preservation@nthp.org
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Dear Preservation: I will be restoring my 1907 frame house, and want to avoid fire, both during and after restoration. What practices, products, and other information can you give me?—Bob della Fiamma.
A: Number One Rule: Be very careful with heat guns and other paint-removal devices. Misuse has caused far too many fires, igniting wood as well as leaves and animal nests. Soy-based paint remover is a good substitute (one brand is Soy-It Paint & Adhesive Stripper). Realize that, in general, opening up walls and floors increases the chance of fire. Monitor electrical connections, solvents, and that classic ogre, oily rags—and don’t feel guilty about replacing ancient wiring. Use shielded cable rather than conduit. You probably have smoke detectors, so follow suit with fire sprinklers. Get the booklet Fire Safety in Historic Buildings, which explains detection and suppression methods and how to optimize them by working with building inspectors and contractors. It’s available through Preservation Books at www.preservationbooks.org. Also, check out the considerable building-safety offerings of the National Fire Protection Association (which has mounted a residential sprinkler campaign) at www.nfpa.org.
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Dear Preservation: We recently purchased a house built in 1927. In the basement, a few pipes have asbestos tape on them. Do we need to do anything about it now, or only if we do renovations sometime in the future that will disturb the pipes? —Joel I. and John M.
A: Asbestos tape was once commonly used for ductwork or steam pipes. To confirm that your tape does indeed contain asbestos, have a local lab test a small sample. (Here's a list of labs.) The primary concern is that toxic fibers will become airborne, usually after the tape becomes brittle, dry, and starts to crack. If the tape is in good condition, it probably poses little threat. You can coat the tape with a special paint or other type of sealant, perhaps non-asbestos lagging, to trap fibers. It's safest to have a licensed professional skilled in asbestos removal do this work. If you're planning to do renovations that will eventually disturb the tape, it's probably best to remove it now. Contact your local licensed professional for a quote.
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Dear Preservation: I live in a 1920s house that underwent some unfortunate updating during the 1960s. What is the best way to remove texturized ceiling material that had probably been used to conceal cracked plaster, and can this be done without hiring professionals? —Trinket Shaw
A: Textured or "popcorn" ceilings installed before 1980 may contain asbestos so, before trying to remove the spray-on coating yourself, send a small sample to an EPA-certified testing lab to see if you need to hire a certified asbestos removal contractor. If your ceiling is asbestos-free and paint-free, you can remove the textured covering yourself, though the process is both taxing and messy. Using painter's tape, cover the walls and floors with several layers of heavy-duty plastic and protect the floors with rosin paper. Take a garden hose and spray the ceiling with water so that the ceiling is wet, but not soaked. After a few minutes, scrape away the damp "popcorn" with a dulled joint knife. If a spot requires hard scraping, spray more water, let it soak, then try again. Once the coating is completely removed and the ceiling is dry, repair bare joints. Then sand the ceiling, apply a sealer (such as KILZ), and primer. Complete the project with a coat or two of paint.
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Dear Preservation: We live near a historic district, but previous owners painted our brick house, and we'd like to undo the damage. How do you remove paint from brick? —Lucy Schreiber
A: Very carefully. Whatever you do, don't pressure-wash the exterior, as it could damage the brick. We recommend hiring professionals who can make sure to protect the mortar joints and prevent lead dust from flying into the air. If you live near an historic district, you should also call the district to see what it recommends and if anyone knows of any local paint-removing professionals. (Many painting companies also offer paint-removal services.) If it's a spot of graffiti that ails you, look into SmartStrip by Peel Away, a biodegradable water-based stripper. Lastly, if you want to clean your brick, we recommend Cathedral Stone's D/2 cleanser, which has been used on various historic surfaces, such as brick buildings in Harpers Ferry National Historical Park. It's important to note, however, that brick homes have been painted for as long as brick has been a building material. Owners painted their brick houses to conceal alterations, such as bricked-up windows, but also to conceal poor-quality bricks. Check with your local historic district to see if painting brick has historically been a common practice for your neighborhood, and for your house.
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Dear Preservation: Before I start restoring my house, I'd like to find out more about its architecture. But how? —Susan Delaney
A: Can't tell Greek Revival from Gothic Revival, a mullion from a muntin? Then you need A Field Guide to American Houses by Virginia and Lee McAlester, which has been edifying the architecturally perplexed since 1984. With crisply organized text, simple drawings of houses and their identifying features, and photos of examples nationwide, the McAlesters explain all the styles—and their amazing regional variants. Tying it together are essays on stylistic history, house shapes, and structural anatomy. This is your go-to guide, whether you're a casual explorer or love to dig into the details. The Abrams Guide to American House Styles (2004) by William Morgan is less exhaustive but just as comprehensive. Stuffed with gorgeous color photos of restored dwellings, the book keeps things up to date with sections on post-modernism and deconstructivism, noting the latter houses for their "multiple—clashing or oddly interlocking—forms." A chapter on curiosities gathers undefinables like the Lustron House. You'll find that both of these books, by the way, make good travel guides.
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Dear Preservation: I live in a 1912 house that's full of charm, but expensive to heat. How can I make my house more energy-efficient this winter? —Jim Beckham
A: Here are a few ideas, and don't forget to read last year's green issue for more tips:
- Add or upgrade your attic insulation. You'll reduce heating and cooling costs by as much as 20 percent.
- Close fireplace dampers. An open damper means you're paying to heat (or cool) the great outdoors.
- Turn your refrigerator up to 38-40 degrees, and your freezer up to five degrees. (Don't worry, the rum raisin ice cream will still be frozen).
- Unplug appliances (cell phone chargers, TVs) when not in use. The EPA estimates that electronics drawing power when turned "off" cost the average homeowner $100 per year.
- Install compact fluorescents. They use a fraction of the energy consumed by old-fashioned incandescent bulbs.
- Turn down the water heater to at least 130 degrees. Then wrap it with a pre-cut jacket or blanket to save 4-9% in heating costs.
- Add individual thermostats to old radiators so that each operates on its own "zone."
- Install low-volume showerheads and dual-flush toilets to save water.
- Use ceiling fans to circulate warm air in winter, and reduce perceived interior temperate in summer.
- Maintain windows and storm windows, and consider window treatments: A close fitting shade can reduce heat loss in winter by 20 percent or more!
Grab your digital camera and join our Love Your Historic Windows photo group on Flickr for a chance to be next week's spotlight.
