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The Munras Murals

 

Mission San Miguel Sacristy Wall

A close up of the cracked north wall in the sacristy of Mission San Miguel Learn More

Mission San Miguel Sacristy Wall

Mission San Miguel Pulpit

A photo of the pulpit in Mission San Miguel Learn More

Mission San Miguel Pulpit

Mission San Miguel Nave Wall

A close up of the cracked nave wall of Mission San Miguel Learn More

Mission San Miguel Nave Wall

Interior view of Mission San Miguel

A view of the interior of Mission San Miguel from the choir, facing the retablo Learn More

Interior view of Mission San Miguel

Eye of God

A close up of the Eye of God from the Mission San Miguel retablo Learn More

Eye of God

Columns of Mission San Miguel

An example of the columns from the northwall of Mission San Miguel Learn More

Columns of Mission San Miguel

 

The simple, stuccoed exterior of Mission San Miguel Arcángel gives no hint of the exuberant decoration and stenciling that adorns its interior. Completed in 1821, the wall painting in the nave of Mission San Miguel represents the only unrestored example of Spanish Colonial era art in the California missions.

The murals at Mission San Miguel Arcángel depict trompe l’oeil classical architectural themes combined with faux fabrics and traditional religious iconography. Painted blue columns line the side walls of Mission San Miguel’s nave, supporting a rose colored entablature and a turned balustrade designed to give the appearance of a gallery. Open spaces between the faux columns contain stylized painted swags of drapery, fan patterns, garlands, and designs imitating carved wood. The ceiling of the nave, one of the most elaborately decorated in the California missions, is composed of carved wood beams with corbelled ends, or vigas, painted in vibrant greens, pinks, blues, and whites. The original pulpit is set against the north wall near the altar, with a domed canopy painted in blue, green, red, yellow, black, gold, and silver.

 

The focal point of the church, the wood raredos, or altar back, is divided into three parts articulated with marbleized wood columns supporting a bold entablature. The sections shelter carved wood figures, or santos, depicting St. Michael the Archangel, St. Joseph holding an infant Jesus, and St. Francis of Asís. The figures stand against green panels, enclosed by painted floral borders and rosettes. Above the santos, the entablature, brightly painted in greens, pinks, and yellows, supports two large wood cut-outs of carved classical urns with flowers, linked together by more painted floral garlands. The center piece of the raredos is the Moorish all-seeing “eye of God” motif in a perfectly symmetrical cloud, surrounded by stylized rays of light fashioned from carved and painted wood fanning out in all directions

 

The work in the nave of the church was directed by Esteban Munras, but the stenciled walls in the church sacristy are independent creations of Salinan artisans. The walls of this room, where the priests don their vestments before leading mass, are decorated with a uniform pattern of fruit and foliage, creating an wallpaper effect.

 

Take a virtual tour of the interior of Mission San Miguel Arcángel.

 

View Historic American Building Survey Drawings and Photos of Mission San Miguel Arcángel from 1934.

 

The Artists

 

Esteban Munras

 

Salinan Indian converts living at the mission painted the wall frescoes, ceiling, and raredos at Mission San Miguel Arcángel under the direction of Spanish-born artist Esteban Carlos Munras (1798-1850). Munras was a native of Barcelona and is said to have studied art there as a young man. By the age of 23, Esteban Munras had immigrated to California, taking up residence in the colonial capital of Monterey. Mission records tell us that Father Jan Cabot invited Munras south to San Miguel from his home in Monterey to oversee mural design and execution at Mission San Miguel Arcángel.

 

Munras designed a scheme for the murals at Mission San Miguel drawing upon neoclassical, Moorish, and Byzantine influences that were common in mission art in Spanish North America at the time. Some writers speculate that Munras was familiar with the décor of Spanish missions in Mexico, and patterned the murals at San Miguel after those works.

 

Little is known about Munras’s artistic work beyond Mission San Miguel. After settling in Monterey, he established a rancho by 1824 and had a thriving hide and tallow business. Portions of his former home remain standing in Monterey, incorporated into a local hotel. Munras also served as a Spanish diplomat to California. He died in Monterey in 1850.

 

The Salinan Indians

 

Even less is known about the individual Salinans who painted the murals at Mission San Miguel. In their efforts to further the work of converting the Salinan people to Catholicism and European cultural practices, the Franciscans chose to site Mission San Miguel Arcángel near a large Salinan village called Cholam or Cholami. Between the missions at San Antonio, San Luis Obispo and San Miguel, nearly the entire local population of Salinan Indians was gathered into the missions within a fifteen year period.

 

The native population at Mission San Miguel peaked in 1814, when more than one thousand neophytes lived at the mission and in the adjacent neophyte village. As was the case with native peoples throughout in the Spanish mission network, the administrative structure at Mission San Miguel largely restricted Salinans to mission lands and strongly pressured them to give up their cultural practices. Salinan learned agriculture, building, ranching, and trades, providing support for both the Salinan peoples and the mission system.

 

Following Mexico’s independence from Spain, the Mexican government secularized and closed the missions. Mission San Miguel was secularized in 1834 and many of the Salinan people left the area, taking up ranchos or other employment. During the mission period and afterward, disease, violence, and geographic dispersal diminished the Salinans’ numbers. By 1842, a census showed there were only thirty Salinans living in the vicinity of Mission San Miguel. By the late nineteenth century some estimates put the total number of Salinans in California as low as twenty. The Salinan people did not disappear, however. Their descendants continue to live in California and in the vicinity of Mission San Miguel.

 

Learn more about the Salinan people in a brief ethnography and history of the Salinan people prepared by the Salinan Tribal Council.